Monday, 23 February 2026

A VISIT TO GRENFELL TOWER 0n Wednesday 14th January 2026.

 


John and I arriving at Latimer Road Station with Grenfell Tower in the distance.

In the past, a good friend of mine, John and I had talked about visiting the site of Grenfell Tower to see where the conflagration happened. It is easy to think we might have been spectators out of morbid interest.  I think we wanted to get a sense and understanding, if that is possible. 


John and I worked out a route to Grenfell via the Circle Line from Wimbledon. We both got our separate trains to Wimbledon Station then the District Line. It’s always interesting to travel a route we seldom travel. It’s a few years since I took this line. Through Putney, across the Thames on through Fulham Broadway to Earls Court. We changed at Earls Court to take the branch line to Hammersmith, with its music and theatre history. I saw The Who at Hammersmith Odeon when I was 19 years old. John and I had a coffee in a shop outside of the station. From there we walked to the Hammersmith and Circle Line station which took us to Latimer Road. We got out of the train and there, nearby, we both got our first view of Grenfell Tower dressed in its white cladding and giant green hearts.


Grenfell Tower from the roads around.

It was reasonably easy to find the site of the tower which is now a ,”deconstruction,” site with a crane overarching it and site workers in hard hats busy with its gradual demolition. One road to it was barred by gates and fences. A friendly and understanding site worker said our route was barred to pedestrians now. We wanted to find the memorial garden and he directed us  in the direction we needed to walk.


Teresa May visiting Grenfell the day after the disaster.


I have a flickering memory of seeing this on the news on the day of the tragedy. These same streets full of firefighters , hoses and fire engines, search lights lighting up the vicinity. At the time  Theresa May was the Prime Minister. She visited the sight the day after the tragedy to meet with firefighters and the police. A picture shows her standing amongst a group of firemen ,a fireman explaining what had happened his arm pointing and Theresa may looking up in the direction he pointed. What she did not do is meet with any of the survivors which she has been strongly criticized for. She herself regrets not doing that. She has met survivors since. She quickly announced a full inquiry and stated then that the people of Grenfell Tower had been failed . Already those in authority knew it was their failings. Years of government cutbacks and a failure to keep to strict building and construction standards. I have read the report which is available free online from the National Archives  all these nine years later. It confirms in great detail many of the failings that people knew about then.



John and I walked the streets, Whitchurch Road, Treadgold Street, Grenfell Road, Sirdar Road. We walked past St Clements Church. We stood on the steps and of the forecourt to Kensington Leisure Centre near the tower. We looked at the Kensington Aldridge Academy close to the Tower and entered the basement of the low level flats in Whitchurch Road and talked to the security guard on duty in the entrance. These places were crucial to what happened as the fire unfolded and in dealing with the aftermath of the disaster.


Kensington Leisure Center next to the tower.

The inquiry report describes how there was a lack of response from Kensington and Chelsea and in particular the TMO (the Tenant Management Organisation). Lack of trust, lack of communication and future planning all failed the occupants of Grenfell and it was places such as St Clements Church nearby that was used as a drop in centre and a warehouse for resources the tenants needed in the aftermath that came to the fore. The Kensington Leisure Centre was the main emergency relief centre. It was initially chaotic because of any organisation by the council. Kensington Aldridge Academy  the secondary school within the shadow of Grenfell ,had to be evacuated and closed down. It was placed in temporary accommodation for a year until it could return to its premises. 


The entrance to Baseline Business Studios.

John and I went down the steps into the cavernous basement area to the flats near Grenfell. It is now a vibrant hub of workshops and local businesses, a collective called Baseline Business Studios. A poster in a window read ,”Your Home, Your Community, Your Area.”

It is a local office space and enterprise space that supports economic growth for local start ups. There are various occupation categories including local businesses, community organisations, council services and commercial enterprises. Some of the startups include Lancaster West Neighbourhood Team, part of the housing management that was established in 2018 after the fire in response to the Grenfell tragedy. It provides an open front door for residents who have any queries. This was a service that Kensington and Chelsea had certainly not provided for the tenets in the past. Another company is Red TV Management that includes a design group. Hand Painted Ceramics is run by Suzanna KatKhida. The north Kensington Law centre is here. V Plus V Internal is an architecture group that also designs furniture. United Living Property Services provides property services such as regeneration, building maintenance and building safety. Ther are up to forty different businesses in this basement area.I presume resources and finance were provided for these things after the fire to help regenerate Grenfell.


One of the high level walkways near Grenfell Tower.

John and I walked along some of the high level concrete walkways that connect the local low level flats in our exploration of the area around the tower. At one location we were so close to the weather sheeting that cover the tower we could almost reach out and touch it. People are living in these flats connected by these walkways. Grenfell is  constantly in their minds and in their vision. What memories and experiences these people have we can only surmise. We saw local residents walking along the same walkways John and I walked along. It would have been insensitive to speak to people about what happened.  John and I felt acutely aware of where we were and what happened here. I wonder now what they must have thought of us walking about. They would know we weren’t locals.


Grenfell Tower and the memorial garden.


For a while we stood in the area beside the tower that is a memorial garden. There are photographs of people who died and tributes to them. There are large green and red hearts with the word ,Grenfell, in the centre. Large white areas of wall are written on by local people and survivors remembering various individuals. Teenagers, I guess from Kensington Aldridge Academy, have written poems. 


I will use the title and spellings of the displayed poems.

Here are parts of three poems.


Regeia Yasin 14 years of age wrote.




 REMEBERING GRENFELL : A Promise For Justice.



“Hi everyone.

Today we are here to remember Grenfell

And more importantly the people we lost


…………………………….

They weren’t just victims of a fire

They were failed by a system that should have protected them

……………………………….

…….the people in that tower deserved so much better”


Karnis Julian 14 wrote. 


(This brought tears to my eyes.)


“My Life After That Day.

It has been 8 years since there

Has been a hole in my heart

…………………………..

We saw our parents crying.

Life changed that day.

I remember after that day I was worrying  if my best friend Taleen was still alive

I started to go to therapy

…………………………………….

My life after that day became scary.”


Taleen Ahmed 14 years old wrote.


“SEVENTY TWO


Seventy two. We speak each name

Seventy two with lives unfinished

………………it was cut by greed and those who lied

………………ignored the vulnerable.”




John and I stood in silence for a minute and then said a prayer to the dead and the bereaved.

Then we read some of the handwritten comments on the white areas where many have written their thoughts.


This is what some wrote.


“ This should never happen again. RIP.”


“Burning is his way. X Partner forever Bev.”

“Love & never forgotten ever. My only wish is to turn back time.”


“To see you again. See you on the other side.” RIP Ray and Karen.


“Heartbroken. Took Marley.”


“Forever in our hearts.”



The comments go on and on. There are masses of them. A whole web of thoughts and feelings. It’s heartbreaking seeing them written with love and pain. A catastrophic event like Grenfell will affect individuals, families, friends the community forever. It will always be there.


Grenfell Tower was built in 1974 two years after Trellick Tower  a few miles away. The fame attached to each of them could not be more different. Trellick is a design icon, a listed building with literary and film history attached to it. It is a 1970’s historic gem.


Grenfell Tower burned down on the 14th June 2017 killing 72 people and making hundreds homeless.


The next day the Prime Minister, Theresa May set up a public inquiry into the disaster.

In the introduction to the first part of the inquiry report it states,


“On the morning after the fire the Prime Minister announced that there would be a public inquiry into the circumstances surrounding the fire and on 28 June 2017 I was appointed to act as its chairman. On 15 August 2017 the Inquiry was formally set up under the Inquiries Act 2005 (the Act);”


A memorial wall.

The inquiry was lead by The Rt Hon Sir Martin Moore-Bick. One of the thoughts that always occurs when an inquiry like this is set up is has the right choice of person to lead the inquiry been made? The government, the nation as a whole and certainly the people of Grenfell want somebody who is going to carry out a thorough inquiry that leaves nothing unexamined.

Was Sir Martin Moore Bick the correct person to carry out this inquiry? 

The Guardian published an article explaining there were doubts about his suitability.

“Educated at the Skinners’ school in Tunbridge Wells and at Christ’s College, Cambridge, he became a barrister in 1969 and spent more than 20 years as a judge of the commercial court and the court of appeal. There were reports that there had been a delay in announcing his appointment because of concerns in Downing Street over his record on the bench.

In one 2014 case, Moore-Bick said Westminster council could rehouse Titina Nzolameso, a single mother with five children, more than 50 miles away in Milton Keynes. He ruled that it was not necessary for Westminster to explain in detail what other accommodation was available and that it could take “a broad range of factors” into account,” including the pressures on the council, in deciding what housing was available.

In light of this, how would he treat the tenants of Grenfell? 


I have read most of the report. It is more than 2500 pages long. I  read the introductions and conclusions to the different  volumes that constitute each of the two parts. Some of the chapters I have read in more detail . In particular the parts about how the construction and building trade constructed their cladding and how it was tested and given British Standards approval. 


The tone is detached, dealing with facts and assessments of the evidence but it is written in an accessible language that is not too technical and can be read and understood by any  person. It also has a sensitivity towards the people of Grenfell. You get a sense that Sir Martin  Moore Blick is on the side of the people of Grenfell and he is doing his very best for them. I have found no criticism of him and his report from the people of Grenfell.


I will try and provide an overview of what the report says. I have been left gasping, shocked and annoyed. I felt angry reading it. 


I think the report provides a view in microcosm of how our country in many aspects is governed. Everywhere you look there are failures which affect us all.

The Grenfell Report reveals many failures but I would like to begin with the relationship the people of Grenfell Tower had with the local authority, The Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea known as RBK in the reports.  The council gave any dealings with  people in social housing to what is termed  the TMO,  the Tenant Management Organisation.  The TMO had lost the trust between itself and the people of North Kensington. They had ignored complaints about the need for repairs for years. They saw certain individuals who lead the many complaints as the enemy. The TMO had no real plans in place to deal with any disasters that might occur. The poorly designed plan they had was inadequate. The Royal Borough also had a plan but it too was inadequate and was long out of date and there was no communication or links between it and the TMO. Local government buildings regulation officers lacked experience and training. 


The London Fire brigade, perhaps through lack of funding over years had inadequate training and inadequate resources to deal with anything on the scale of Grenfell. They couldn’t deal with the large number of 999 calls from people located in the flats and often they could not interpret the information they were being told. There was also a lack of communication with firefighters and other organisations on the ground. The LFB also were working on plans that had been created fifteen years previously before the refurbishment of Grenfell which made their plans useless. The ,”stay put,” policy, the order for people to remain in their flats was fundamentally wrong. When the LFB realised that the, stay put, policy could not work they were slow in changing the approach.



The London Metropolitan Police Force were successful in controlling the area when the fire broke out but much of their key equipment such as the latest helicopter surveillance from the air was being repaired at the time. Helicopters were in the air monitoring what was going on but the equipment’s inadequacies made the surveillance unhelpful.


One fundamental weakness in the response was the lack of communication not only between the LFB’s own call centres with its own firemen but also between the services, the police, the fire brigade and the council itself. Nobody knew what the others were doing in effect. Returning to the police helicopters monitoring of the fire, they could not link their video footage of what was happening  with the other services. There was no link in communication . The newer helicopters that were grounded did have the more up to date equipment which would have allowed them to communicate with all the services but they were not in use.


There was of course a fundamental lack of training and planning in all areas. The government at the time, first under David Cameron, who introduced austerity measures and then at the time of Grenfell, Theresa May, who was continuing the austerity approach, was all about cut backs and saving money. The government minister in charge of building rules, regulations and safety was an inexperienced junior minister. 


The companies that made the insulation Arconic, who made the rainscreen panels, Celotex, the foam insulation, Siderise, who made the cavity barriers and Kingspar who created a false market in insulation, that had recently been put onto Grenfell tower was probably the greatest cause of death and in creating a disaster. There is a strong argument for criminal proceedings against people who knowingly sold and promoted cladding and insulation they knew was dangerous and inflammable. The testing that had been done on the materials used was inadequate. It was not carried out in realistic situations. The British Standards organisation took the information  the companies  provided about the materials at face value and passed them for use. They carried out no tests themselves.


The streets and community around Grenfell.

THE FIRE:

The fire began in flat 16 at 2.12 am because of an electrical fault in a large fridge freezer in the kitchen. The people in the flat were Mr Kebede, Ms Afeworki and Ms Kinfin. The occupants were found to carry no blame for what happened. From the kitchen the fire entered the cladding on the outside of the building.  

A fire of that relative modest size was perfectly foreseeable by the designers of the flats. The original concrete construction was actually designed to contain a fire within a single flat. This lead of course to London Fire Brigade’s original stay put policy. All the occupants were told to stay within their flats for safety. However, because of lack of updates over the years to the LFBs planning for such a fire in a block like this, that policy  no longer pertained. 

As we know the flats had been refurbished with flammable materials that were not in the original design. As well as insulation cladding which was attached to the outer walls  an aluminium rain shield was placed over the new insulation that itself was also lined with flammable materials. There was a gap between the rain shield and the insulation creating a flu for hot air and flames to pass up the building. The initial fire could possibly still have been contained within the flat itself if other factors had not occurred. Many of the extractor fans in the kitchen areas did not work and often were jammed open to create an air flow. But more importantly the windows now created the biggest hazard. In the refurbishment the windows had been replaced. The new windows were smaller than the original windows and the gap around the new windows had been filled with inflammable materials. The window in  flat 16 was the cause of the fire getting from the flat to the outer cladding. Windows in the other flats throughout the block, which failed too, were the cause  of the fire entering the flats.

Within twenty minutes the fire had reached from flat 16 to the top of the block up the east face. The top had been decorated with inflammable materials and so it soon continued around the top of the flats before descending down the other three sides burning the aluminium composite rainscreen panels that had polyethylene cores which became a source of fuel. Nothing complied with any sort of robust building regulations.


St Clement with St Marks Church next to Grenfell Tower.

The poor planning by RBKC and the TMO was dire. They had nothing in place to deal with the now homeless people from the flats or dealing with the families of the bereaved. It was local people, local churches and the community centre that dealt with the aftermath.


The London Metropolitan Police have been conducting their own criminal inquiry in parallel to the Government inquiry. This year 2026, nine years after the disaster should be the year we find out if there will be criminal prosecutions. Of course there should be. There were failings in every aspect of running the social housing in the borough. There were failings in every aspect of the construction trade. There were failings in every aspect of the responding organisations. Many people who were part of the council, the fire brigade or the police are not culpable because they were part of failing organisations that was not their fault. The people at the top running these organisations and making unsafe decisions often knowingly should have criminal prosecutions brought against them though.


As I wrote above, John and I held a minute’s silence and said a prayer standing below Grenfell Tower.


On reflection, reading about the  web of complicity and how many bad decisions all came together I wonder whether what happened at Grenfell is a small example of how our whole country is run?


LONDON FIREBRIGADES RESPONSE

https://www.london-fire.gov.uk/about-us/grenfell-tower-fire/grenfell-tower-fire-news-archive/


BBC NEWS ARTICLES


https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/topics/cnw8ynk633gt


https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cj9lg4yrpeko


https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cvg1eje2jg4o


ROYAL BOROUGH OF KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA RESPONSE


https://www.rbkc.gov.uk/grenfell-response-and-recovery/grenfell-tower-inquiry


THE GUARDIAN


https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2017/jun/28/grenfell-tower-inquiry-judge-retired-martin-moore-bick



LONDON METROPOLITAN POLICEC RESPONSE TO THE GRENFELL REPORT


https://www.london.gov.uk/who-we-are/what-london-assembly-does/questions-mayor/find-an-answer/grenfell-tower-investigation


https://www.met.police.uk/foi-ai/metropolitan-police/disclosure-2023/october-2023/investigative-information-relating-grenfell-fire-case/




THE GRENFELL INQUIRY REPORT HELD IN THE NATIONAL ARCHIVES


Phase 1 full report in The National Archives


https://webarchive.nationalarchives.gov.uk/ukgwa/20250320040117/https://www.grenfelltowerinquiry.org.uk/phase-1-report




Phase 2 full report in The National Archives


https://webarchive.nationalarchives.gov.uk/ukgwa/20250320032754/https://www.grenfelltowerinquiry.org.uk/phase-2-report




Wednesday, 31 December 2025

EDWARD BURRA Tate Britain Exhibition (13th June -19th October 2025)



Edward Burra.

Recently I went to the Edward Burra exhibiton at  Tate Britain with Mark , a friend of mine. He had suggested it would be an exhibition we might enjoy. Mark knew something of Burra's work and I knew nothing.

Edward Burra was born on the 29th March 1905 at his grandmother’s house in London.

His father was a barrister and became the Chairman of East Sussex County Council. His family were well off. He suffered pneumonia as a child. This caused him to leave school and be educated at home. He took art lessons from a lady called Miss Bradley in Rye before going to Chelsea College of Art in 1921. He went on to the Royal College of Art in 1923 where he met colleagues many of whom became friends.  In 1925 he was travelling in Italy where he met the artist Paul Nash. In October 1925 he visited Paris with William Chappel, who also became a lifelong friend. In 1928 the two of them were back in Paris along with Edward Ashton, the choreographer and ballet dancer. Chappel became a ballet dancer and choreographer who was taught and influenced by both Marie Rambert and Edward Ashton. In 1928 Burra was commissioned by Crawfords the Scottish biscuit company to design vehicle advertising signs. However these were not accepted. In May 1928 he visited Toulon with Chappel and other friends including Barbara Ker Seymer, who he had met at Chelsea College of Art, the society photographer and who also came from a wealthy background. Burra visited dance halls and music halls on the Rue de Lappe in Paris. The sorts of places he derived much inspiration.  Many paintings he made of nightclubs and bars were done later from memory.



Burra wrote letters to Barbara Ker Seymour and  his friend William Chappel thorughout his life. These letters were idiosyncratic and often amusingly illustrated. His letter writing was tongue in cheek, lively, stream of consciousness and in a conversational style. He used current slang words and often spelled phonetically. His letters were full of gossip, accounts of his travels and details of stage shows and films he enjoyed. Reading one of his many letters to Barbara Ker Seymer, that are on display at the Tate exhibition, illustrates all these aspects. 



Here is an example of one of Burra's idiosyncratic letters.


“Dear Ma is Cotkland nice we had a fog yesteray a very bad wone. I am stil in London I am righring this letter this momen I am and a very nice letter too the best wone I have riten for a long time.

Miss Forbs came to meat me here on Saterday I dont know if Billy is any Better I roat him a letter yestern I am going home tomoro I am OH yes.



Barbara Ker Seymour (1980)

Painting style:

Minuit Chason and other paintings such as Three Sailors In A Bar, are examples of social realism. He portrays real scenes and real encounters between people. Often there is a political slant with sexual undertones. Standing in front of a Burra painting I feel drawn into the world he portrays There is humour and often a dark side, you wonder what are the intentions of the characters. What are they doing? You  get a sense of  who they are. You begin to know them. His paintings are often embellished by bright colours. You almost smell the smells, feel the heat or cold, feel an intimacy with his characters, smell their sweat.

Other pictures have deep political meanings such as his later paintings about the modern landscape of Britain in the 1960s. and sometimes, such as Beelzebub (1937), a  moral  and spiritual undertone.

Burra engaged at a deep level with the worlds he inhabited, and he takes us, the viewer ,there with him.

Dancing Skeletons (1934) (Tate Britain)

Painting

He had his first solo show at Leicester galleries in 1929. Other exhibitions at this time included an exhibition of his wood block prints at the Society of Wood Block Engravers.


Because of his illness he found it difficult to stand for long, so using an easel to paint was uncomfortable for him. He preferred painting with watercolours and gouache, on flat surfaces. Often his paintings are large. He would paint different parts of his paintings on separate pieces and join them together to make the final picture. Gouache and watercolours are both water soluble paints but gouache is opaque while watercolour is transparent. Gouche has a high pigmentation content and is often mixed with chalk and other additives to give it a thick matte finish. Many of Burra’s paintings have these qualities.


Ballet and Theatre, (Tate Britain)


In November 1931 the Edward Ashton ballet, “A Day in a Southern Port (Rio Grande) opened at the Savoy Theatre in the Strand. Burra designed the sets and the costumes. Later in the 1930’s Burra exhibited with the English surrealists.

Burra was active throughout his life designing scenery and costumes for ballet, opera, theatre and illustrating books.  Edward Burra died in 1974 after breaking his hip in Hastings East Sussex. The Tate held a retrospective in 1973. The Arts Council produced a documentary about Burra in 1981.


The Tate Britain Exhibition (13th June to 19th October 2025)


This recent exhibition of Burra’s works at the Tate Britain is divided up into themed rooms. They are almost different periods of his artistic life but themes often overlap in time and are often in parallel to each other.

French sailors in a bar. (Tate Britain)

The first room covers France and metropolitan culture. An example of Burra’s work at this time is Le Bal painted in 1928 of a Paris dance hall. Metropolitan culture in Paris included dance halls, bars, music venues, cinemas and theatres. Burra engaged with them all. In Le Bal we see a crowd of people all close to each other. The atmosphere is sexually charged, men with women, men with men, women with women or are some of them cross dressing? There is a sexual fluidity in this picture as in many of Burras paintings. Burra makes their forms glow as though they have an inner light. Even the decorations on the ceiling, a series of material swags and electric lights have a luminescence. You can feel heat off Burra’s paintings often of human bodies but also from the structures and artefacts within the paintings.How would I feel if I was in that scene? What emotions, touches, conversations, smells, tastes? What do you talk about with the people you meet, being a part of a scene like that? What are you looking at?

A Harlem scene. (Tate Britain)

Another themed area was the  Music and The Americas.  Burra during the early years of the 20th century 1917 to 1930 visited Harlem in New York. He enjoyed jazz music and often listened to jazz which inspired many of his paintings. He visited Club Hot-Cha, Apollo Theatre, and the Savoy Ballroom. It was in places like these he heard Duke Ellington,  Louis Armstrong, Cab Calloway and Billie Holiday. His pictures of Harlem  imaginatively fill your ears with the sounds of jazz and the conversations of hustlers selling something elicit, perhaps.


One of Burra's Spanish Civi war paintings. (Tate Britain)

The section entitled Culture and Conflict in Spain The Spanish Civil War 1936 to 1939, includes some of his paintings of conflict in war. His most famous painting depicting the Spanish Civil war is War in The Sun 1938. You can’t clearly see any of the faces of the characters in this picture. You either look at the backs of heads or side views  in shadow. There is something of the Renaissance style of painting in the architecture of the buildings which show cracks in places. Artillery pieces and the intricacy of cogs , the workings of military vehicles, catter pillar tracks. The characters in the foreground show the curves of their bodies almost in grotesque fashion, coloured red, purple and blue. In the distance from behind a black curtain, perhaps a stage curtain drawn back, is a grey almost colourless landscape with men climbing onto a military truck heading into the distance. People are losing their humanity and becoming part of the machine of war. What would it be to be going to war with the characters in that painting?


Ropes and Lorries 1942-1943 (Tate Britain)

The next section continues Burras depiction of war ,"The War within 1939 to 1945. "Edward Burra lived in Rye in Sussex for much of his life. Burra was unable to serve in the military because of his physical health but living on the coast at Rye he would have seen military preparations. There he witnessed troops in the area during World War II. His painting, "Soldiers at Rye 1941", is an example of his work then. There are similarities with his Spanish Civil war paintings. The soldiers look bulky and fill the frame. Again Burra emphasises the curves of their bodies. He has a fixation with shoulder and back muscles and the curvature of buttocks. This gives a slightly erotic feel to many of his pictures. Once again many faces are turned from us or hidden in the shadow of helmets. But the faces now also have grotesque beaks like hawks or vultures. The soldiers are being turned into birds of prey, natural killing machines, "man’s inhumanity to man."

You can sense Burra’s horror of war and what it does to human beings.

Scenery for the ballet of Don Quixote. (Tate Britain)

During the 1930s at the same time he was witnessing war Burra was also working on stage designs. The next theme in the exhibition is Art on Stage 1931 onwards.

Burra’s design for the drop curtain "The Nightmare, Don Quixote, "Royal Ballet, Covent Garden, February 1950 has some of the elements of his war paintings, the man monsters have similar colours and actions. Don Quixote looks out at as shocked and distraught. The contrasting angles and sharp broken elements of the picture portray an emotional state of horror. His severe rheumatoid arthritis and the blood condition which caused anaemia made him suffer pain. You can see in this  stage set and in many of his war paintings that pain being interpreted. 

An English Country Scene 1970. (Tate Britain)

The final part of the exhibition, "Landscapes of modern Britain,"  shows how Britain is being affected by industrialisation and the infrastructure needed for cars. Petrol stations are a theme. Railway tracks being laid.One picture shows a thin winding road cutting across an undulating chalk downland  landscape. As the road comes closer to us the lorries, motor cycle and cars loom into view. The road starts as a thin  scar among other scars across the natural landscape of Britain. One particular painting ,"Near Whitby Yorkshire 1972", shows a road disappearing into the foggy, misty luminous distance across undulating  moorland. The tops of the moors tilt at angles to each other careering drunkenly. A view of natural landscape scarred by the road and what will drive along it. It is an emotional response once again. 


(Tate Britain)

This picture in particular reminds me of  J M W Turner's 1844 painting Rain, Steam and Speed – The Great Western Railway, also a picture about industrialisation combining with the natural.Turner portrayed emotion and  ideas about Romanticism, something similar to Burra's achievement.


Edward Burra is one of those unique painters who does not easliy fit a genre although he has elements of many.

Minuit Chanson (1931) by Edward Burra, (Tate Britain)

Engaging with Minuit Chanson (1931)

On  May 19th 1931 Burra wrote to his friend Paul Nash, the modernist landscape painter and brother of John Nash 

“My new occupation is going to the Boulevard Clichy to Minuit Chanson which is glorious. You put bits in the slot and listen to gramophone records. The clientele is enough to frighten you a bit what with listening with one ear and looking at the intrigues going on elsewhere. I quite forsake Montparnasse for Place Pigalle. The people are glorious. Such tarts all crumbling and all sexes and colours.”


The people in this picture stand tall. They are the prominent part of the picture. The shop they congregate in front of  acts like a series of thin black frames filled in with bright white. The clock says midnight but the shop is so brightly lit it looks  like  garish daylight.A  manufactured light . It  could be a lit stage. Midnight has  mystical and religious associations, dreams, revelations, the witching hour an unsettling time. Midnight features  in fairy tales usually having a powerful magical influence on characters lives changing them  and  affecting them profoundly. The characters in Burras painting appear to have entered a new world.


Most of the people in this picture do not look at each other apart from two men in the background but they can’t be conversing, focussed on smoking thin cigarettes and the one whose face we can see seems to be glancing away from the person he is with. One moustachioed gentleman on the left  with bespectacled eyes is leering intently at a sailor who is focussed and intent on listening to a piece of music through an ear piece. It must be jazz. Two women  dressed with fur stoles and elegant dresses stand near each other but are facing in different directions their lips rouged , their eyes dark rimmed with heavy black kohl make up. Is the thin woman in white a man in drag? Is the one in the black jacket and green skirt a young teenager? The man on the right in the light tan suit with a blue overcoat draped over his arm, is he really a woman dressed as a man? Is anything what it seems to be? At the front of the picture is a black man looking nonchalant and as smartly dressed as any other in the picture, an equal. He looks to his right and into the sky. They are lonely characters looking for a thrill, looking for adventure.


The picture is about equality in a variety of senses, sexual ,ethnic and social, its about the reality of being human released from societal expectations. There is a freedom of spirit. You can imagine the smell of perfume, cigarette smoke, the sweat of encounters, the emotional buzz.  The Jazz and Blues music playing in the booths, require improvisation, a free expression of emotions and real feelings .Are these characters discussing  political views or comments on the hardship of life and society?


As Burra describes in his letter to Paul Nash he visited Minuit Chanson while he lived in Paris and he thought it was glorious , a place where all sorts of people gather. Burra himself loved Jazz and Blues. That is what you can imagine these prostitutes, cross dressers, sailors,  and black people, all of a youthful demeanour, are drawn to.  It is a view of the 1930s,  working class,  a mixture of classes perhaps,where people are trying to escape into a more glamourous, risky,  world. The aristocracy and wealthy of the time had their more glitzy version, just as hedonistic.


(Tate Britain)


References:

https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-britain/edward-burra

https://britishartjournal.co.uk/edward-burra/





Monday, 15 December 2025

JANE AUSTEN'S BIRTHDAY 16th December 1775.

 



Jane Austen a portrait by her sister Cassandra. National Portrait Gallery.







The handwritten copy of Jane Austen's The History of England. The British Library.
She probably wrote this in 1790 while she was living with her family at the Steventon Rectory.




The cottage in Chawton Hampshire where Jane Austen lived for the last eight years of her life from July 1809 to May 1817.

Saturday, 11 October 2025

GRACECHURCH STREET in THE CITY OF LONDON and Jane Austen's Gardiner Family

 

Gracechurch Street in The City of London  (18th century and 21st century)


Gracechurch Street points north from London Bridge, through the city towards Shoreditch. It is an ancient road following the Roman Road, Ermine Street, along Gracechurch Street becoming Bishopsgate and then the Kingsland Road  ( also known as the A10)through Shoreditch eventually going north towards Lincoln by way of the A1. The Roman road continued to York. It linked these two key Roman towns and strongholds. Today it still follows a somewhat similar route to the same places.


Mr and Mrs Gardiner.

Among the characters in Jane Austen’s novel, Pride and Prejudice that exert a strong influence, are the Gardiners. Mr Gardiner is Mrs Bennett’s brother. They are the Bennett girls uncle and aunt. 

“Mr Gardiner was a sensible gentleman like man . Greatly superior to his sister as well by nature as education.”

However, the Bingley sisters discuss the possibility of the Bennet sisters making a good match.

“ But with such a father and mother, and such low connections, I am afraid there is no chance of it.”

“I think I have heard you say, that their uncle is an attorney in Meryton.”


“Yes, and they have another, who lives somewhere near Cheapside.”


“That is capital,” added her sister, and they both laughed heartily.


‘If they had uncles enough to fill all Cheapside,”cried Bingley, “ it would not make them one l jot less agreeable.”


It is important to note that their brother ,Charles Bingley and also Fitzwilliam Darcy do not join in the mocking commentary. They do not share their sisters viewpoint. They appear more reserved about the Bennet sisters connections. Perhaps they know the real worth of that part of London. They are men of wealth and business.


East India Company warehouses near Gracechurch Street.

The Gardiners, Austens fictional characters,live in Gracechurch Street which meets Eastcheap at its southerly extremity. Why should there be such snobbishness shown by the Bingley Sisters? We need to consider where the wealth of Britain came from in the 18th and 19th centuries. Who made the wealth? How was Britain developing as an economic power?  The Bingley sisters are offering a very narrow view of Britain. They are elitist, wealthy, ignorant. The gentry and the aristocracy’s power and influence was on the wane. Britain was modernising. The Industrial Revolution and Britain’s vast trade links around the world were the real driving forces.


So where did Gracechurch Street, the City, and its power come from?



An artists impression of Roman London showing Ermine Street going north. The Forum is shown.

Roman London

The Romans invaded Britain first n 55BCE when Julius Caesar landed in Kent but he went away again. Trading connections with the Romans were a continuous occurrence however and some British tribal leaders or kings had strong trading links with Roman Europe. The Emperor Claudius in 47CE decided to invade with more serious intent, again landing in Kent. This was the closest land to France and was the shortest route for a large invading army.. The grain supplies and minerals and metals  that Britain could provide was too much of a draw to rely merely on trading agreements. The Romans reached the River Thames and attempted to find a crossing so that they could infiltrate further north. The Thames River was surrounded by extensive marshland and finding a crossing to build a bridge was a difficult enterprise. Eventually gravel deposits either side of the river provided a geology and firm foundations that enabled a wooden bridge to be built .From there  the Romans had access to the rest of Britain. The site of this first crossing became a Roman settlement called Londinium. It became a powerful trading hub and also a road hub that spread out across these islands. 

The road system included Ermine Street which lead north; Watling Street which went south east to Canterbury,;Stane Street which went south west to Chichester , a tribal capital that was not only friendly with the Romans but was a military landing and embarkation point for the army and a port for trade, Portway which lead towards another crossing of the Thames at Staines and lead to the West Country and the Roman town of Ilchester. The site is located in Hampshire north of Basingstoke. Watling Street went north west to Verulamium nowadays St Albans and an important Roman town.

Ermine Street is the one I am concerned with. It was a direct route from London Bridge  and the trading wharfs beside The Thames that lead directly north to Lincoln and eventually York which both became powerful military and trading centres under the Romans.

Ermine Street beside the Thames became Fish Steet, which merged into Gracechurch Street ( it had various iterations over the centuries , Garscherchestrete, Gres-church, and Grascherche). It reaches Leadenhall Market and Bishopsgate before it leaves The City boundaries and becomes The Kingsland Road , nowadays the A10, leading on to the A1 and the north. Today it still leads  to Lincoln and York.


The main roads the Romans built leading from London opened up the whole of Britain. They didn’t extend into Scotland and only into parts of Wales. But infrastructure such as good roads, and the Romans were the best at building roads, were integral to moving armies around swiftly  to keep control and to conquer but they were equally important for trade and the creation of wealth. 


So Gracechurch Street follows Ermine Street that was once filled with Roman merchants and troops moving north and coming south. Gracechurch Street  passes through the middle of what was the Roman Forum. Excavations have shown that London’s Roman Forum consisted of the Basilica which served as a centre for political, judicial and commercial activities. This is where trading went on, laws were administered, and political decisions were made. It was the heart of London.


After the Romans left in 410CELondon was left to fall into ruins and was not effectively used again until the Angles, Saxons and Jutes appeared from 500CE onwards. The City and Gracechurch Street resumed business. Its easy access to The Thames, London bridge and the trading wharfs next to the river ensured it became as important as ever. 

Saxon London

The Saxon period of London dates from the end of Roman period to the beginning of the Norman period after 1066. The Saxons first set up a settlement called Lundenwic to the west of the Roman city, The ,"wic ," part meaning, trading town. It is recalled today by the area known as Aldwych (Old Wic).Viking Armies tried to attack and take Lundenwic at various times. Alfred the Great reestablished Saxon control in 886. It was now named Lundenburgh. Burgh, referring to a fortified town.The Vikings under Cnut the Great took control in 1016. However Edward the Confessor was in control by 1042. The Normans invaded in 1066 after Edwards death and William the Conqueror eventually made London the capital after intitially making Winchester his capital. He built The White Tower to the south east of the old city next to the Thames to keep military control.

Medieval London

Medieval London was a vibrant trading port with connections all over Europe. The Tudors continued expanding its power, influence and wealth. The slave trade began in 1562 during the Tudor, Queen Elizabeth Ist’s reign.by creating the slave trade with West Africa  providing slaves for the plantations in the colonies in the West Indies and North America.  The Royal African Company was set up.


East India Company ships known as East Indiamen.

The Stuarts

Charles Ist, the second Stuart King, began The East India Company  in 1600. 

The East India Company was a British Stock Company. It was owned by British shareholders and it was listed on the British Stock exchange. It was based in the East End of London. It should be remembered that The East India Company used slaves from Africa in its factories in India and China. That is sometimes forgotten in our more overt interest in the triangular trade that traded slaves from West Africa with the colonies in the Caribbean and the Southern States of America. The East India Company had armies in India and China that were larger than the Britsh Army at the time. They progressed through India and China rapaciously conquering and ruling large parts of the subcontinent  to create vast wealth for Britain and the British.

The 1799 Horwood map showing part of The City including Gracechurch Street.


The Georgians

The Georgians continued to develop the slave trade and The East India Company expanded across India and into China bringing enormous wealth to Britain. 

Its headquarters ,East India House ,was located  in Leadenhall Street just to the north of the market. 

The main front was in Leadenhall Street but many warehouses were built behind it covering a large area that included  Lime Street to the east.

Many wealthy people , including the aristocracy  and the gentry invested in the company. Members of the twelve livery companies of The City of London including the Ironmongers , the Mercers, the Fishmongers, the Grocers and others, also invested in the company and made great wealth from it. The livery companies also traded and invested in The Royal African Company too.


The East India Company headquarters in Leadenhall Street just off Gracechurch Street

The East India Company

Warehouses and homes of East India Company officials were on or near Gracechurch Street.

The primary location of the East India Company warehouses, though not directly on Gracechurch Street, included Devonshire Square, Billiter Lane, and Sugar Loaf Court, all located near the Company's Leadenhall Street headquarters in close proximity to Gracechurch Street. The warehouses at these sites stored various imports, like tea, spices, and silks, and formed the complex known as the Cutler Street Complex as trade expanded. 

DEVONSHIRE SQUARE

The "Old Bengal Warehouse" was built here by the East India Company in the late 1700s to store goods like tobacco, port, and spices. 

BILLITER LANE. A warehouse was constructed on this private trade road to store and process goods like tea. 

SUGAR LOAF COURT

Warehouses were also located here, contributing to the vast storage and trade operations of the Company. 

HAYDON SQUARE and COOPER’S ROW

These were built to handle the increasing volume of tea and drugs, especially after the Company acquired revenue rights in India in 1765. 

CUTLER STREET COMPLEX

As the East India Company's trade grew, these various warehouse sites, including the ones on Billiter Lane and in the surrounding areas, were consolidated to form what was known as the Cutler Street Complex.

These warehouses were crucial for storing and processing imported goods such as wine, cigars, spices, and silks.

PROXIMITY TO GRACECURCH STREET

The warehouses were strategically located near the East India Company's headquarters on Leadenhall Street, which is just a short distance from Gracechurch Street. 

This clustering of warehouses and the headquarters in the heart of the City of London facilitated the Company's massive trade operations. Jane Austen's Gardiner family were living amongst this.


The East India Company traded mostly from the London Docks but Southampton , on the south coast was an important secondary port . Many ships belonging to The East India Company were built on The River Itchen. Wealthy members of The East India company also built grand houses and created extensive estates around the Southampton area including the Lance family and the Middleton families at Chiswell(now Bitterne)  overlooking The River Itchen. Middenbury to the north of the town was another area where  East India Company administrators grand houses were built. These Included Bittern Grove House which is one of the few remaining grand houses from the 18th century that still exists in the area. James Dott a retired East India Company surgeon lived there. I mention Southampton’s links because Jane Austen while she lived in Southampton between 1806 and 1809 met and associated with the wives of The East India Company merchants. Her brother, Francis Austen was a naval commander who helped protect the East India Company trade routes. He knew many connected with The East India company. Charles Austen, Jane’s other naval brother also had links with the East India Company. These connections and interest may well have influenced Jane in her choice of where the Gardiners lived in her novel.

The East India Docks in The City of London ,opened in 1803 by Joseph Cotton of The East India Company.  is located,  beside the Thames  east of Gracechurch Street. The area is still called The East India Docks today,

As an aside, Austen fans are often engaged and exercised in proving Jane’s anti slavery beliefs  even though there is no clear evidence one way or the other. Mansfield Park is often sited as her slavery novel where anti slavery sentiment is alluded to but not blatantly stated. The slave trade is actually mentioned in one scene. Others go further and describe that the whole novel references slavery through imagery and the use of vocabulary.  Whether she was anti, specifically the West Indian Slave trade or not they forget that she condoned, the Austens as a family condoned, The  East India Company.

The Victorians.

The British Crown took over the East India Company with The Government of India Act in 1858.  This formed what was termed the British Indian Empire. It suffered recurring problems with its finances and the company was dissolved in 1874. The Victorians continued to develop London’s Docklands within a short distance of Gracechurch Street.

Leadenhall Market

Leadenhall Market, that dates form the 14th century, whose entrance is in Gracechurch Street , covering the site of the Roman Forum where trade and politics had originally developed in London is too part of this mix.


The interior of Leadenhall Market (2025).


Virtually covering half the site of the Roman Forum, with its entrance in Gracechurch Street,is Leadenhall Market.

The Romans established the first basilica and forum covering Gracechurch Street.Later they built a larger  basilica and forum between Fenchurch Street and Fenchurch Street aligned with Gracechurch Street. The Roman Road plan is still evident with Bishopsgate, Cheapside and Leadenhall Street following the ancient Roman plan. In the 2nd century the forum and basilica were rebuilt under the Emperor Vespasian. The city was at its most prosperous. This is reflected in the enlargement of its civic centre There are the remains of a Roman pier base in the basement of number 90 Gracechurch Street The forum and basilica were mostly for civic administration but it was also used as a market place originating the sites use which continues today. After the Romans left  in 410CE there is little evidence for its use until the. Saxon and Norman periods in the tenth and eleventh centuries that activity returned. The early medieval street patterns still mostly survive today.

By 1270 Lime Street, Fenchurch Street and Cornhill had sprung from Gracechruch Street along the original Roman Road. Fenchurch could be a reference to faenum(hay) or from the fen like area by the banks fo the River Langbourn.

Four churches were built in the area by in the 11th and 12th centuries.St Peter Cornhill, still survives today. St Dionis Backchurch was rebuilt in 1674 by Sir Christopher Wren after The Great ire but it was eventually demolished in 1878. St Gabriel Fenchurch stood on an island in the middle of Fenchurch Street. It was destroyed in The Great Fire.It was rebuilt but eventually demolished in 1860s.

Leadenhall was one of the most important medieval markets. It took precedence over Smithfield  for meat and poultry. Untill the 19th century Smithfield was primarily a livestock market.. Markets at East Cheap were for meat, Cheapside, poultry, Woolchurch, wool,  meat and fish, Newgate Street meat and Billingsgate was specifically for fish. The Leadenhall originates from the 13th century. A market was recorded there in 1321.Traders from outside the city began to operate stalls at Leadenhall. Traders were given additional rights to sell cheese and butter. The poultry market at Cheapside was wound up by the 16th century.The City Corporation acquired the lordship of the manor in 1411 and proceeded to develop the property as a grain store The new market was declared a general market for poultry, victuals, grain, eggs butter cheese and many other items.


Leadenhall Market in the 18th century.

By the 17th and 18th centurys Leadenhall was one of the main places in the city. Oversees visitors came to visit it. The success of the market created a demand for space. The Great Fire in 1666 only consumed part of the market. The buildings were reconstructed giving the market more order. The City Corporation laid out the market around three large courtyards. The first courtyard  became the beef market where leather wool and raw hides were sold. The second was for veal.mutton and lamb. Fishmongers, poulteresr and cheese makers were located here too. The third courtyard was for fruit and vegetables.Towards the end of the 18th century the poultry market grew at the expense of the meat martket.Between 1794 and 1812 most of the market had been demolished  to make way for new buildings. These were roofed buildings. The narrow entrances from Lime Street and Gracechurch Street remained.The market retained its importance into the 19th century. Eventually the hide and meat markets were abandoned because of the city merchants and the financiers in the area who disapproved of the inappropriateness as they saw it of a meat market being central. From the 1860s the meat market moved to Smithfield.In 1881 Sir Horace Jones, the city surveyor redesigned the market once more. He kept the medieval street pattern but he placed over it an ornate glass roofed market which remains today. It ecame a smarter more regulated area designed on a cruciform plan. It became also a throughfare for passersby.

During the interwar years most of its wholesale activities moved to Smithfield. By the late 20th century and now in the 21st century it is famous for restaurants, bars and shops. It remains one of the main areas of retail activity in the city.


A Huguenot House in Fournier Street just off BrickLane north of Gracechurch Street.

Multiculturalism including different religions, near The City and its effect.


The Area nearby.

The area around Gracechurch Street, Cornhill ,  at the northern end of Gracechurch Street, Lombard Street to the south west and East Cheap running along the south of Gracechurch Street put it centrally within the banking, trading , political melting pot of the city. Coffee Houses proliferated after Pasque Rosee an Italian immigrant set up the first coffee house in 1652 in St Michaels Alley just off Cornhill. The coffee houses were the places where banking began and trade was done and where the institutions such as The Bank of England and the Royal Exchange trading hub that we have today started. It was within a growing multicultural area too. Huguenots , Protestant French who had been expelled from France, moved into the area north of Gracechurch Street in Shoreditch and Hoxton. A large Jewish community grew up in the area of Brick Lane just to the north east.TheQuakers also based themselves in Gracechurch Street itself. This brought about a diverse community of different religious understanding and beliefs. There were of course Church of England Protestants within the community as well. Jewish synagogues  and French Huguenot churches and chapels, Church of England Churches and Quaker Meeting houses were all located on  Gracechurch Street.

HUGUENOTS

The Huguenots were French Calvinist who were formed by the Frenchman Calvin as part of the Reformation in Europe.Calvinist believed in the Bibles authority, Gods sovereignty and predestination. Many Christians did not agree with mnay Calvinist views because of its religious interpretation. They also believed  in a hard work ethic and developing their individual skills. 

They were persecuted cruelly at different times in France. The first Huguenots to escaped to England from France in 1534. Edward VI the Tudort heir of Henry VIII welcomed Huguenots. A Huguenot Church was established at Austin Friars and a chapel was created in Thredaneedle Street in the City. Aftre the St Bartholemews massacre in France in 1572, even more Huguenots escaped across the channel. This was a dangerous thng to undertake. Theywere forbidden form leaving Frnace. Although at different times the Huguenots were granted freedoms in France , persecution returned.. Huguenots came here with various skills that benefitted the economy of England. By 1700 five percent of the total population were Hueguenots. They were skilled artisans, craftsmen, farmers, doctors, schoolmasters. merchants, shipwrights, gunmakers, goldsmiths silk cloth weavers. Some were aristocrats.  They influenced the whole of society and in the city some were bankers, one set up an influencial coffee shop in the city.. Samuel Pepys wife , Elizabeth de St Michel was a Huguenot.


THE JEWISH COMMUNITY

There has been a Jewish community in London since the eleventh century after the Norman Conquest of Britain in 1066. They were not always welcome. In 1190  a group of Jews were massacres in Cliffords Tower in York. Economic problems and the fact that the Jews were able to deal with banking and lending which many Christians were not allowed to do on religious grounds, caused hatred in York. In 1290 they were banished completely from England in the reign of Edward Ist . However, in the 17th century, after the Civil War Oliver Cromwell allowed Jews to return to England, especially the Sephardic Jews who wanted to escape the Spanish Inquisition. These settlers moved to Houndsditch just outside of the City of London to the north east and west of Leadenhall Market and Gracechurch Street. They set up a synagogue in “Creechurch Street,” near Leadenhall which later in 1701 moved to the Bevis Marks site still close to Leadenhall.

By the end of the 17th century they were contributing to London’s economy There were Jews who became traders on the Royal Exchange. In the late 19th century many Jews arrived from Eastern Europe fleeing religious persecution and economic hardship.. They settled in London’s East End around Whitechapel and Spitalfields.

The Quaker meeting house on Gracechurch Street.

QUAKERS

The Quakers, under Geoge Fox, their founder, opened a meeting house in 1666 after The Great Fire, in what was termed at the time, “Gracious Street,” or Gracechurch Street. It was located on the corner of Gracechurch Street and Lombard Street . Quakerism was founded on the principles of integrity, peace, equality simplicity and truth.The Quaker belief of equality for all lead to the anti slavery movement. . All humankind was equal in the sight of God according to the Quakers. George Fox died in a house next to the meeting house in Gracechurch Street on the 13th January 1691. Some 4000 people accompanied his body to Bunhill Fields, the non conformist burial ground just south of Old Street  and north of Gracechurch Street. The Quakers had acquired a piece of land next to the Bunhill Fields. where other famous noncomformists were buried. John Bunyan, William Blake, Isaac Watts and Daniel Defoe are all buried here. The cemetery is  opposite the methodist chapel where the Methodist Museum is now located and where John Wesley is buried. Wesley lived in a house next door to the chapel. 

By the 18th century 25% of the population of the city of London were Quakers. In Lombard street just off Cracechurch Street the Quakers had many businesses until the mid 19th century. In 1691,Thomas Freame and Thomas Gould established themselves as goldsmiths and bankers. They held the main funds of all Quakers and helped finance the setting up of the Pennsylvania Land Company. Barclays bank links its ancestry back to these two goldsmith bankers. 


THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND


The City of London covers just over a square mile. It is often referred to as, “ The Square Mile.” Within its bounds it has many non comformist churches. Jewish synagogues, Huguenot (Calvinist), Methodist, Roman Catholic Quaker,The Brethren Church and a Mormon chapel. However, before the Great Fire in 1666 there were about one hundred Church of England Churches, the established church in England. After the Great Fire, Sir Christopher Wren designed and rebuilt seventy five churches. Some of these churches were merely a few hundred yards apart. The City was crammed full of places of worship.It shows the importance of religion, to community, way of life and often ethnicity in the past and certainly in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries and before. 



St Clements Church in Clements Lane.

ST CLEMENTS CHURCH

At the southern extremity of Gracechurch Street  at the junction with King Willam Street and London Bridge and in a small street called Clements Lane is located St Clements Church. It is within the Candlewick Ward of The City and is one of the churches designed and rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren after The Great Fire.


The church is dedicated to the Roman patron saint of sailors. The church was destroyed in The Great fire of London in 1666 and was rebuilt by Christopher Wren. In the parish accounts one record shows, “ to one third of a hogshead of wine, given to Sir Christopher Wren £4 2s (shillings.)In 1840 there was a movement to reduce the number of city churches. St Clements was saved from that . St Dyonis Church near St Clements in Eastcheap was demolished . Sir Robert Geoffrey a previous Lord Mayor of London and Master of the Ironmongers and his wife Priscilla who were buried there,  had their bodies removed by the Ironmongers and reburied in a small cemetery next to the Geoffrey Almshouses built on The Kngsland Road. Sir Robert Geoffrey had left most of hs fortune for the building of amshouses.


There is a small cemetery at the rear of St Clements.


Visiting St Clements recently I saw how narrow Clements Lane is and the church feels hidden away in a cramped space . A narrow alleyway  along the north side of the church leads to a small, overlooked cemetery. It has tall buildings all around it. It has a dark atmosphere. Unfortunately I could not see inside of the church because it was locked.

In modern times the whole area of London, just outside the City and to the north still has a rich diverse religious history and history of multiculturalism. Noncomformist Christian, Jewish and nowadays the Bangladeshis, who live around Brick Lane and who follow the Muslim religion, live here now .There are a number of mosques in the area.


BOOK PUBLISHERS

There were book publishers in Gracechurch Street in the 18th and 19th centuries.

William Darton, a Quaker,  began a publishing company in 1787 in White Lion Alley off Birchin Lane which extends south from Cornhill right through the area full of coffee houses. In 1788 he moved his publishing company to 55 Gracechurch Street. He was an engraver ,as indeed the famous William Blake was, a stationer and a printer. He formed a partnership with Joseph Harvey, who was also a Quaker and  his own son, Samuel joined them too. His company was first called Darton &Co later changed to Darton & Harvey. He published children’s books, games and educational aids. Children’s books became very popular in the 18th century. William Blake’s own efforts to appeal to this market included Songs of Innocence and of Experience. Over  the next 60 years, his firm printed over 1,000 books for young people. In 1804, a separate firm of Darton was founded by William's oldest son. They published over 1,600 children's titles. 


Dartons publishers on Gracechurch Street.

They published  Quaker works but also, following the path charted by pioneer children's book publisher John Newbery, made a specialty of books for children, written by Quakers and others, and by the early 1800s the family firm was the established leader in the field.

Among writers who were published by them included Anne Knight (1786-1862) a radical reformer and Quaker, Lindley Murray (1745-1826) a grammarian. Pricilla Wakefield (1751-1826)  who was also a Quaker and children’s author and Catherine Parr Strickland (1802-1899) a Canadian author. 

The company changed names at various times when new members of the families, Darton and Harvey joined before it was closed in 1852. 

Different publishers in the 18th century were based in various parts of the growing metropolis of London. Jane Austen’s own publishers, Thomas Egerton was in Whitehall opposite the old Admiralty buildings and John Murray was located north of St James’s Palace  in Albemarle Street. Interestingly the Bronte sisters publishers, Smith Elder &Co was located at the eastern end of Cornhill close to the junction with Gracechurch Street. A number of publishers and the heart of publishing in the 18th century was in St Paul’s Churchyard next to St Paul’s Cathedral. The printing of books took place mostly in Fleet Street and alleys and courts connected to Fleet Street.


COFFEE SHOPS

One type of establishment brought many elements of this cosmopolitan, area of traders and  different religious groups, under a loosely formed homogeneity. That was the emergence of coffee houses. Coffee houses began in Oxford, in 1650, by a Turkish Jew named Jacob who opened a coffee house called the Angel. Two years later in 1652 a coffee house was opened in St Michael’s Alley off Cornhill , a short walk from Gracechurch Street. The coffee was imported by Daniel Edwards who traded with Turkey through the Levant Company. It was managed by Edward’s servant Pasque Rosee. The coffee shop was known as Rosee’s Head. It was later called the Jamica Coffee House and nowadays on the same site is the Jamaica Wine Bar which you can visit and drink a variety of wines and beers and enjoy a good meal. A plaque on the wall outside recalls its first iteration as Pasquee Rosees Coffee House. Within the same small area off Cornhill in the various alleyways other coffee houses grew up. By 1663 there were over eighty coffee houses in London. Coffee houses took a little getting used to. In 1657 James Farr, the owner of the Rainbow Coffee House at Temple Gate was prosecuted for making ,”evil smells,” caused by the roasting and brewing of coffee.


Near St James’s Palace the coffee shops were places for politicians. Whites , made famous in The Rakes Progress by William Hogarth, was located just north of St James Palace in St James Street at the junction with Albemarle Street. On the corner of Albemarle Street was located John Murrays publishing house where Jane Austen had four of her novels published. Her brother Henry actually went to Whites Coffee House on the opposite corner of the junction.

Man’s coffee House at Charing Cross was the place for stockjobbers, (a person who bought and sold securities). Will’s Coffee House was one the best known and it was located near Covent Garden.Garraways in Exchange Alley opposite the Royal Exchange off Cornhill, not far from Gracechurch Street. Just off Cornhill in St Michaels Alley was of course “Pasquee Rosee’s  coffee house,” Rosees Head,” which dealt in the West Indian trade. Slaves were probably bought and sold here. Many coffee houses were burnt down in 1666 during The Great Fire especially those located in the city. They were generally rebuilt after the fire.


Coffee Houses became the commercial , artistic and financial centres of London and the Empire. Lloyds of London the great insurance company had its roots in Lloyds Coffee House in Lombard Street. It was around Cornhill and the alleyways south of The Royal Exchange a great number of coffee houses grew up. There was of course Pasqua Rosees in St Michaels Alleyway  but also within  yards of each other, located within the web of alleyways coffee houses included: Exchange Alley; Jonathan’s, Garraways, Sam’s. Lombard Street: Lloyd’s, Coles. On Cornhill Itself: Union, Tom’s, Batson’s. Rainbow, New York. Castle Court: Jerusalem, Elford’s, Marine. Birchin Lane: Pennsylvania, Bowman’s Sword Blade. All of these places of commercial and social engagement were within close proximity of Gracechurch street. With the headquarters of The East India Company nearby in Leadenhall Street and some of the employees and traders of The East India Company  living in Gracechurch Street, their warehouses full of goods nearby, we can surmise that these merchants did a lot of their business in the coffee houses including Mr Gardener perhaps. 


Jamaica Wine House the site of Pasquee Rosee's Coffee shop in St Michaels Alleyway.


JAMAICA WINE HOUSE  ( Pasquee Rosee’s Coffee Shop)


The Jamaica Wine House is located  in St Michaels Alley off Cornhill.It is part of a web of alleyways, narrow and dark, that give a sense of the London of post 1666 when London was rebuilt after The Great Fire. Some of the buildings originate still from that time including The Jamica Wine Bar. A blue plaque relates that this was the site fo Pasquee Rosee’s Coffee shop. When you walk inside it is wood panelled with small rooms flowing off each other. Sitting here with a pint or glass of wine you can get a real sense of being inside an 18th century coffee shop.  At lunchtimes and evenings it is always full of people who work in the insurance, banking and trading world. Things have not changed. In the 18th century it would have been used  as a place to trade and buy and sell. 


Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese off Fleet Street.

YE OLDE CHESHIRE CHEESE


Off Fleet Street, set back in another narrow alleyway, Wine Office Court, is the entrance to Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. This was a pub rebuilt also after The Great Fire of London. A pub has been on this site since 1538. Everybody who was anybody has visited Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese over the centuries. Oliver Goldsmith, Charles Dickens, (a scene in A Tale of Two Cities occurs here. Charles Darnay and Sydney Carton meet), Mark Twain, Alfred Lord Tennyson, Conan Doyle, Chesterton, and Samuel Johnson. Samuel Johnsonson lived very close by at 17 Gough Square which you can visit too. It was where Johnson created his famous dictionary.  Johnson is renowned  for many things but one of them was the frequenting of pubs and coffee houses. This pub is as it was in the 18th century. It still consists of different wood panelled rooms which were originally hired out to groups of friends. Johnson, along with the artist Joshua Reynolds founded, The Club , a talking and discussion group. That mostly met at the Turks Head tavern in SOHO. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese is however set up and designed as a typical 18th century establishment of this sort. Johnson most definitely met friends here. Perhaps even Joshua Reynolds, the philosopher Edmund Burke and his biographer James Boswell. Being so close to Gough Square perhaps he met publishers to discuss his dictionary? In a similar way as visiting the Jamaica Wine House you too get a sense of entering a world exclusive to the 18th century. Much of what went on at the Cheshire Cheese would have been very similar  to what went on in a coffee house. Coffee may well have been served as well as wines and beers. In recent years plaster ceiling mouldings from the top floor of the Cheshire Cheese have been discovered. They are of a salacious and lewd variety. It is assumed that the pub was used as a brothel. Many of the coffee houses also were used as brothels as a side line.



Schools in The City in the 18th century.

The traders and merchants living in Gracechurch Street including perhaps the fictional Gardeners,, the Quakers, the Jewish community, the Huguenots   had families and children. They wanted their children to be educated. There is no evidence however for The East India Company setting up schools for the children of their members. The Gardiners had, two daughters and two sons. Jane Austen does not tell us their names. The way the Gardiners deal with their children is part of their appeal and their more modern view of the world. The boys no doubt went away to school. The girls would have been educated at home. The Gardiner’s were well educated and thoughtful so the girls would have been encouraged in their learning just like Jane Austen was herself at home with her brothers and sister. Their father George Austen was liberal minded about his daughters learning. Mr Gardiner I can imagine being equally liberal.

There were schools set up in the area in the area of Gracechurch Street by charites and other organisations.

Westminster French Protestant School

This girls' school, founded in 1747, was also known as the Blue Coat School. It provided education, feeding, and clothing for disadvantaged children of Huguenot descent. After moving to Shaftesbury Avenue in 1846, the school finally closed in 1924. 

Threadneedle Street Church School: 

This school was associated with the French Church of London, which was established to provide support for Huguenots, especially those in the Spitalfields area. There are records of its charity school, which operated from 1719 to 1802. 

Merchant Taylors' School was founded in1561,  in the City of London .

There were many charity schools in 18th century London including

Blewcoat School. The school was founded in Duck Lane in 1688 for the education of poor boys to teach them reading writing, religion and various trades. From 1714 it also admitted girls.

St Pauls school was set up next to St Pauls Cathedral by John Colet in 1509. 

Charterhouse school was established first on the site of Charterhouse near Smithfield in 1611.

 


The School Room  (1683 - 1687) One of Winchester College's many historic buildings.

Members of The East India Company sent their boys to be educated to the likes of Winchester College. Cheryl Butler in her book, "First Impressions, Jane Austen’s Southampton Circle 1780-1820, " describes the life at Winchester College when writing about the life of Milicent Cropp Ballard. The Ballards sent their ward John to Winchester College. The Ballards visted the Austens at Castle Square, Southampton, on occasions.

“The Ballards’ ward, John, was sent to be educated in one of the best schools in the area, Winchester College, where he was a Commoner, at the age often and where he remained until the age of thirteen. It was not an easy existence. In 1770 a visitor noted: ‘No humane parent of moderate means would allow  his son to undergo rough treatment to which the lower boys were subjected in the lower chamber,’

The teaching was classical, Cicero, Horace, Ovid, Virgil and was entirely in Latin. The school day began as early a 5am and until 1838, the only place for washing was in the open air conduit. Meals were mostly boiled beef or mutton accompanied by bread washed down with beer……….( it was a very low in alcohol beer. Beer was far more healthy than drinking water. Typhoid and cholera could be caught from untreated water.)

The boys lodged in unheated dormitories around a courtyard with a sick room and dining hall, described as a ‘strange and rambling bizarre old place’ not built for comfort. Grim as the facilities sounded they were better than those for boys who attended as scholars.”


They learned Greek and Latin which was important for the church and legal documents but they also learned to write poetry and lengthy documents. They learned oral skills of debate and speech giving. All the skills that they needed to be administrators and chairmen of companies. The education was elitist. The girls of East India Company families stayed at home and would learn music, dancing, reading and writing, and sewing. 

Which St Clements did Lydia and Whickham get married in?

There is some argument over which St Clements Lydia and Whickham got married in.  St Clement Danes near the Aldwych, is just that, St Clement Danes. The one close to Gracechurch Street is plain St Clements. Austen specifically calls the church St Clements. Local people, in and around Gracechurch Street would mostly not be aware or interested in what was going on in a church many in the area did not attend. The possibility of local gossip surely couldn’t be a reason for Austen not locating the marriage in  Cheapside? Different people argue for one or the other.


The Spread Eagle Coaching Inn, Gracechurch Street.


COACHING INNS

In Gracechurch Street there were coaching inns. The Spread Eagle in Gracechurch Street in particular could have a connection with Lydia and Wickhams elopement. Coaches to and from The Spread Eagle  went to: Bromley (Kent), Epsom, Gravesend, Harwich, Lewisham, Lincoln, Lowestoft, Peterborough, Rochester, Sleaford, Stilton, Stoke (Suffolk), Streatham, Tooting, Woodbridge. 

The mention of Epsom fits the story. That was where Lydia and Wickham changed coaches to travel on to London. The question then arises, was a journey to Gracechurch Street planned by Wickham so that he could offload Lydia at her uncle and aunts house and escape the marriage which he tells Fitzwilliam Darcy he does not want? Fitzwilliam Darcy certainly lends a hand in getting him to do the right thing. The promise of money and a military positon is offerd as a bribe.

Mrs Gardiner in her letter to Elizabeth relates in some detail what is going on in London with Lydia and Wickham. Lydia is staying with her aunt and uncle until the wedding. Wickham visits every day. I can’t imagine Wickham traipsing right across London from lodgings near the area Mrs Young, his old colleague in misdemeanours, who he contacts. She lived, probably around The Aldwych.  Living some distance from the Gardiners where Lydia is staying would have given him opportunity to escape. So I think he must have had lodgings near The Gardiners.  This whole episode has its mysteries.

Pride and Prejudice ends with the following lines.

“With the Gardiners they were always on the most intimate of terms. Darcy, as well as Elizabeth, really loved them; and they were ever sensible of the warmest gratitude towards the persons who, by bringing her into Derbyshire, had been the means of uniting them. FINIS”









References:


Saxon London: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anglo-Saxon_London


Leadenhall Market:

https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/assets/Services-Environment/leadenhall-market-spd-conservation-area.pdf


Huguenots:

https://www.thehistoryoflondon.co.uk/huguenots/


Coffee Houses:

https://www.thehistoryoflondon.co.uk/coffee-houses/


The history of banking in London:


https://archives.history.ac.uk/ihrcms/cmh/projects/research/counting-house-to-office.html

The Quakers of Gracechurch Street:


https://digitalcollections.tricolib.brynmawr.edu/object/hc144065


https://bunhillquakers.org.uk/files/city_business_walk_guide_2.pdf


http://studymore.org.uk/quasharc.htm



Multiculturalism in the East End.


https://www.ideastore.co.uk/local-history/collections-and-digital-resources/user-guides/migration-and-communities-in-the-east-end


https://removalvanshoreditch.co.uk/blog/a-cultural-adventure-in-shoreditch-discovering-the-soul-of-east-london


https://www.google.com/search?q=history+of+jews+in+london


https://www.londonmuseum.org.uk/collections/london-stories/jewish-east-end/


The Jewish Community: Creechurch Street off Leadenhall Street

https://www.pepysdiary.com/encyclopedia/6818/

Families of East India Company Men.

Butler Cheryl.  First Impressions, Jane Austen’s Southampton Circle 1780-1820 , 2025 Hobnob Press.

Austen Jane: Pride and Prejudice (First published 1813) Penguin Classics reissued 2003