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Datchet is located in the south east of the screen shot map. Maidenhead
is in the north west part of the map. We
walked on the north bank of The Thames, which is the lower loop of the river
shown where the Thames Path wends its
way.
Tony Brown and I continued our Thames Path walk on Friday 25th
September. On recent sections of our walk along the Thames we have been getting
further away from London into Berkshire. The sections of the Thames we have
walked recently, have taken us from
Hampton , near Tony’s home, to Lower Halliford and then on to Chertsey, Egham
and Staines. It feels a long time ago we first started walking the Thames Path,
beginning at Woolwich Ferry east of London with John Lodge , who has joined us
on many of the sections. Tony and I last
walked from Staines to Datchet so Datchet became our starting point for this
recent walk. The Thames has many tributaries, islands, loops, locks and reservoirs and we have enjoyed so many of
them, as well as each other’s company.
The Thames Path is a National Trail following the Thames. A path was first proposed in 1948 but it only opened in 1996. The Thames Path's entire length, 184 miles, can be walked and some of it cycled.
Tony Brown beside the Thames at Datchet.
The aim of Fridays walk
was to reach Maidenhead. In the past we have planned short routes of no
more than five or six miles along the river and then returned, walking back
along our route to the car at the start. This Friday we decided to walk from Datchet
to Maidenhead, a longer walk. To return
we thought that we would get the bus back to
Datchet.
Datchet is a lovely place. Until recently I had never been
there. Often, driving along the M4 to Wales I have seen signs branching off the motorway
to Datchet but had no idea what was there and what it was like. The centre has a village green with Georgian and Victorian
houses and shops set around it. It feels peaceful and appears to be a very nice
place to live with expensive houses set in park like grounds bordering the
village and along the banks of the Thames. When you look at the map, you see
Datchet beside The Thames but you also notice that the M4 motorway is north of the village close by and that
Heathrow Airport is just a few miles towards the east. Aircraft taking off from
Heathrow have risen to a few thousand feet by the time they fly over Datchet
but they are still climbing and the sound of their engines wining away is
evident.
The centre of Datchet.
One of the features of The Thames along this stretch are the
water meadows with reed beds and wooded paths and also extensive fields
surrounded by tall hedgerows. It is rural and much farming goes on in the area.
That seems to be an anomaly with the closeness of major roads and low flying
aircraft and the centre of London not that far away. It appears that the world
has passed it by and taken detours around it. Surrounded by this idyllic setting we
anticipated a pleasant walk amongst trees and fields beside a sparkling full
flowing Thames.
There are many houses beside the Thames with lawns reaching down to the waters edge.
The Thames path encroaches on peoples land in some places. Many of these houses
are set in beautifully manicured gardens with shady trees and shrubbery’s
bordering smooth green lawns. The houses are often extensive in size and I imagine in price too. Some are modern and are
built on stilts. Some have hydraulic pillars positioned under their
foundations. The older houses appear to be built on raised ground with high
stone walls fronting them. Of course all
these architectural features are there
to deal with flooding when the river
rises above its banks.
Houses beside the Thames.
Many of the larger islands, called aits, have housing on
them too set in idyllic settings. Some of these properties have their own piers
at the side of the Thames with luxurious launches and motor yachts moored at
them.
Each time we walk the Thames Tony and I see canal boats and sometimes large motorised barges that
have been converted into luxurious water born homes. Many of them have stainless steel
chimneys for log burning stoves, small wind turbines and expanses of solar
panels. Some have satellite dishes.
A barge home on the Thames.
A little way along the river from Datchet we approached
Windsor and crossed over a stone bridge with
iron ornate shields attached to the stone parapets informing us that the Queens
commissioners had built the bridge in 1851. The Queen being Queen Victoria. The
middle span of the bridge was replaced during the 1960s with a concrete
arch, topped with rails on each side, making the bridge look like a poor ill
designed hybrid. The two stone ends recall an attractive sturdy bridge of the
past. We can only guess its former elegance. Windsor Castle rose above the roof
tops of Windsor town to our left.
This was the original part of the bridge before the modern central arch.
It was interesting to see on the opposite bank of the river
the expanse of Windsor Race Course. Neither Tony or I had known such a
racecourse existed. The grandstand in the distance looked old in style, perhaps
Victorian. We wended our way across meadows and fields called ,”The public
fields of Eton College.” It occurred that Eton College must own a lot of the
land in the vicinity.
Every so often we came across locks with their gate systems
allowing boats to pass from one level of the river to the next. We stopped at
Boveney Lock , to eat our packed lunches.
The weather was mild although the day had begun with some rain . The
temperature was a little lower than of
recent, about 17 degrees but the wind was strong. Tony found a spot that was
sheltered from the wind at the bottom of the levee bordering the river here,
near the lock gates. We drank tea from our flasks and ate our sandwiches and fruit.
Locks have been built along the Thames since the 17th century.
Boveney Lock was built in the 19th
century to help control flooding and to ensure the Thames remained navigable at
this point.
Boveney Lock.
We walked on past Dorney Lake that is an Olympic rowing lake
used in the London 2012 Olympics. It belongs to Eton College.
On the opposite side of the river, set within rolling lawns
and tall trees was a castellated stone built manor house called, Oakley Court.
We could see extensive patio areas with large sun shades. Marquees were set up
within the grounds. This is an exclusive hotel and spa complex. I Googled
Oakley Court later when I got home. A room for the night costs between £400 and
£1000 with views over the Thames and the lush meadows and fields surrounding
it. The bar is open to casual callers but the restaurant must be booked ahead, especially
in these times of Covid 19.
Oakley Court.
We walked on past the fields surrounding Dorney Reach. We
could hear the sounds of the M4 motorway in the distance. We approached the
massive hulk of the bridge taking the M4 over the Thames. Widening of the
motorway is happening at this point so the usual pathway is blocked. Pontoons
with non slip surfaced walkways have been constructed, floating on the river
under the bridge . We walked under the motorway and saw the impressive long steal arches that support
the bridge and motorway above.
A pontoon passing under the M4 motorway.
Often along the Thames we have come across boatyards. All the various luxurious motor launches and the canal boats and barges need to be taken care of. Their bottoms need to be scraped and renovated. Many of the boatyards appear to be family businesses and by the look of these boatyards and the buildings comprising them they look as though they have been there a long time. I remember , as a child seeing workshops, garages and boatyards in Southampton made from corrugated iron and painted a dirty matt green. Many of the boatyards along the Thames , with their mess of ropes, chains, cranes and rusting buoys have this same timeless feel.
A boatyard on the Thames.
We soon reached the next lock at Bray. The village of Bray
on the other side of the river was out of view at this point because a series
of aits stretch the length of the river here. One of the aits is called Monkey Island Estate. The grand
white stuccoed mansion on the island is another exclusive hotel. Two famous
restaurants are at Bray, The Fat Duck run by Heston Blumenthal and the Roux Brothers’
Waterside Inn. Bray is famous from the
culinary point of view nowadays but much earlier than that ,
In good King Charles’s golden days,
When Loyalty no harm meant;
A Furious High-Church man I was,
And so I gain’d Preferment.
Unto my Flock I daily Preach’d,
Kings are by God appointed,
And Damn’d are those who dare resist,
Or touch the Lord’s Anointed.
And so the Vicar of Bray is remembered. He changed religious allegiance to whoever was on the throne so he could keep his job. The poem actually refers to a number of vicars of Bray from Tudor times when religious allegiances could cost you your head up to vicars in the 17th century who were also keen to keep their incumbency. We walked past Bray Lock on the north side of the river.
From Bray, we were getting tired by now our legs feeling the effort, we walked on to Maidenhead passing under the elegant Victorian railway viaduct, designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel and featured in J W Turner’s painting Rain, Steam and Speed.
On reaching the road bridge, we walked into the centre of the town. We asked people as we walked along where we could catch a bus back to Windsor. Eventually Tony and I found a bus stop, walking through the market and out the other side of the High Street. We took the number 15 to Windsor. The bus took a rather circuitous route looping past the local hospital, through a housing estate, all the time travelling, in apparently, the wrong direction but eventually it drove on to the centre of Windsor.
We alighted near the old town hall designed by Christopher Wren which is also close to the public access to the castle. We waited some time for a number 10 bus to take us back to Datchet. Windsor to Datchet is not far and this part of the journey took no time at all.
Before we departed from Datchet, an enticing pub called The Royal Stag overlooking the village green beckoned for a reviving pint of beer. Parts of the Royal Stag date back to 1400. Since the Covid crisis we have not been into many pubs. A sign instructed us to put on our masks and wait to be shown to a table. We both have the recent National Health Service Covid 19 app on our phones so we scanned the NHS QR code. This new device will turbo boost track and trace,I hope. There were not many people in the pub and it was not long before one of the bar staff came and showed us to a table. Sitting at the table we were permitted to remove our masks. There was a good social distance from other people at other tables. A menu enabled us to order beers. I chose a local brew called Grenadier and a packet of salt a vinegar crisps. We could go to the gents as long as we put our masks back on.
Tony drove me to the station at Hampton. On the train I sat back, with my face mask on of course, and phoned Marilyn. "Can you pick me up at Raynes Park?". I felt knackered.
So the next part of our Thames Path Odyssey will take us from Maidenhead and on past Cliveden and Cookham, then Marlow and on towards Henley, both very beautiful historic towns on the Thames. I often
get the sense that we are walking through Kenneth Grahame’s Wind in The Willows
countryside and Jerome K Jerome’s Three Men In A Boat comes to mind also.
ADDENDUM:
